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Phnom Penh: Capital of Cambodia |
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Built in 1372
by a wealthy lady known as Lady Penh (Doun Penh) A
mixture of Asia exotica, Indochinese Charm and Cambodia
hospitality await the visitor to Phnom Penh. Situated at
the confluence of three great rivers - the 'four arms'
or 'four faces' of the Mekong, Tonle Sap river and
Bassac rivers. Phnom Penh is Cambodia's commercial and
political hub, and is home to more than a million of the
country 13.1 million peoples. It is also the gateway to
an exotic land, the temple of Angkor in the west, the
beaches of Sihanouk ville on the southern coast and the
ethnic/linguistic minority peoples and jungle of the
northeastern provinces .
Phnom Penh offers
several cultural and historical attractions including
the Royal Palace, Silver Pagoda, National Museum, Wat
Phnom, Toul Sleng Genocide Museum and Dancing
school. There are also a variety of service
including fives-star hotels and budget guesthouses, fine
international dinning, sidewalk noodle shops,
neighborhood pubs and more.
Phnom Penh, like
other Cambodia tourist destinations, is in the midst of
rapid change. Over the past few years, the number of
tourist as well as the number of restaurants, hotels and
other tourist services has grown dramatically. There are
now direct daily flight to Phnom Penh and Siem Rep from
several Asian cities including Bangkok, Ho Chi Minh,
Vientiane, Singapore, Taipei and more. At least for
overland border crossings have opened since 1998. Even
travel within the country has become easier with several
airlines flying domestic routes, regular bus service to
Sihanoukville, Kampong Cham, and Kompong Chhang and
route condition on the national routes gradually
improving throughout the country. Cambodia is becoming
easier to visit everyday.
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Royal Palace buildings |
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Chanchhaya Pavilion The
pavilion dominates the view of the front of the palace
on Sothearos Blvd. It is used as a classical dance
theater, for Royal receptionists and banquets and from
which the King delivers speeches to the pulic.
Constructed in 1917. Hor Samran Phirun Royal waiting
area where the King waits to mount an elephant for Royal
procession implements. Constructed in 1917. Hor Samrith
Vimean Also know as the 'Bronze Palace.' Repository for
Royal regalia and attributes. A display of Royal regalia
and costumes on the grown floor. Constructed in 1917
Khemarin Palace The Royal residence. Closed to the
public. Napoleon lll Pavilion Constructed of iron.
Originally built for French Empress Eugenie's use the
inauguration of the Suez canal. Later presented as a
gift to King Norodom from Emperor Napoleon lll in1876.
Currently. Houses Royal memorabilia and a photographic
exhibition. Temporarily closed for renovation. Best
photographed in the morning.
Phochani Pivilion
Originally constructed as a classical dance theater, it
is currently used for Royal receptions and meetings.
Throne Hall The Throne Hall is the primary audience
hall of the king, used for coronation and diplomatic and
other official meetings. Note the thrones of the king,
and Queen?s throne higher and at the back, and the
beautiful ceiling frescoes. Constructed in 1917.
Inaugurated by king Sisowat in1919. Replace an earlier
structure built an 1869. Best photographed in the
morning.
' Silver Pagoda '
Buildings Dhammasala Used for Buddhist monks to
recite texts and also as a royal reception area.
Keong Preah Bath Shrine containing Buddha footprints.
Furture tellers. Library small library next to the main
vihear that houses sacred Buddhist texts and also
contains an image of a sacred bull, and several Buddha
statues. Fortune teller in the shrine.
Phnom
Mondop Shrine containing a large Buddha footprint atop a
small hill symbolizing kailassa from Buddhist legend.
Forture tellers inside the shrine. Ramayana Frescoes
The interior of the pagoda compound walls is covered
with a mural depicting stories from the Ramayana
(Reamker). The mural was painted around the turn of the
century and is water damaged in some sections.
Status of HM King Norodom Equestrian status of the
king Norodom (r: 1834-1904). Completed in 1875 in Paris,
placed on the pagoda grounds in 1892. Stupa of HM
King Ang Doung Stupa of the King Ang Doung
(r:1845-1860), great-great-great grandfather to king
Sihamoni. Constructed in1908. Stupa of HM King
Norodom Stupa of the King Norodom (r:
1834-1904).Constructed in 1908. Stupa of HM king
Suramarit and HM Queen kossomak Stupa of the father and
mother of former King sihanouk (r:1955-1960),
grandfather and grandmother to Sihamoni. Stupa of
Princess Kantha Bopha Stupa of the boloved daughter of
the retired king Sihanouk. Wat Preah Keo
Morokat Also know as the ' Silver Pagoda '
(for the 5329 silver tiles that cover the floor) and the
'Temple of the Emerald Buddha.' The vihear serves less
as a functioning temple than a repository for cultural
treasures such as the a 90 kg golden Buddha enctusted
with over 2000 diamonds, the 'Emerald Buddha,'
innumerable statues and objects of art donated topagoda.
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Choeung Ek Memorial (The Killing Fields) |
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(15 km southwest
of Phnom Penh- Take Monirith 8.5km past the bridge at
Street 271) From April 17, 1975 until January 7, 1979,
the ultra-Communist Khmer Rouge (Red Khmer) regime, led
by Pol Pot, controlled the whole of Cambodia. Under the
Khmer Rouge regime the country was known as 'Democratic
Kampuchea.' During the short reign of the Khmer Rouge,
between one million and two and a haft of million
Cambodians perished, some killed outright, others dying
from disease, malnutrition, neglect and mistreatment.
Many of the dead ended up in various 'Killing fields'
that can be found scattered across the country. The
killing fields were essentially ad hoc place of
execution and dumping grounds for dead bodies. The
memorial at Choeung Ek just outside Phnom Penh was an
orchard and a Chinese cemetery prior to 1975. During the
Khmer Rouge regime it became one of the killing
fields-this particular killing fields is the site of the
brutal executions of more than 17,000 men, women and
children, most of whom first suffered through
interrogation, torture and deprivation in the S-21
Prison (Toul Sleng) in Phnom Penh. Choeung Ek is now a
group of mass graves and a memorial stupa containing
thousands of skulls. It's about a 20-40 minute drive
from the center of Phnom Penh. There are guides
available at the site, and a small souvenir shop. For
sake of historical context, combine your trip to Choeung
Ek with a visit to Toul Sleng Genocide
Museum.
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Toul Sleng Genocide Museam(S-21) |
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(Corner of
street 113 & Street 350-$2.00- Open everyday,
include holidays, 8AM-5PM- Close for lunch)
Prior to1975,
Toul Sleng was a high school. When the Khmer Rouge came
to power it was converted in to the S-21 prison and
interrogation facility. Inmate were systematically
tortured, sometimes over of a period of months, to
extract confessions, after which they were executed at
the killing fields of Choeung Ek. S-21 processed over
17,000 people, less than a dozen of whom
survived. The building now serves as a museum, a
memorial and a testament to the madness of the Khmer
Rouge reguime. Much has been left in the state it was
when Khmer Rouge abandoned it in January 1979. The
prison kept extensive records, leaving thousands of
photos of their victims, many of which are on display.
Paintings of torture at the prison by Vann Nath, a
survivor of Toul Sleng, are also exhibited. The museum
famous and controversial skull map has been dismantled
and is no longer
displayed. | |
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Independence Monument |
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The Independence
Monument (Vimean Ekreach) was inaugurated in 1958 to
celebrate Cambodia's independence from foreign rule. It
was designed by the renowned architect, Vann Molyvann.
The moment now also serves as monument to Cambodia's war
dead. It's the site of colorful celebrations and
services on holidays such as Independence Day and
Constitution Day. Located at the intersection of Norodom
Blvd, and Sihanouk
Blvd.
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National Museum |
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(Street 178 & street
13, next to the Royal Palace- $3.00 -8:00-5:00, open
everyday) The distinctive rust-red National Museum next
to the Royal Palace was dedicated by King Sisowath in
1920. Over 5000 object are on display including
Angkorian era statues, lingas and other artifacts, most
notably the legendary statue of the 'Leper King' Though
the emphasis is on Angkorian artifacts, there is also a
good collection of pieces from later periods,
including a special exhibition of post-Angkorian Buddha
figures. Visiting the museum after rather than before
a trip to Angkor helps lend context to the Angkorian
artifacts. Multi-lingual tour guides are available.
Souvenirs and books available. Photography is limited.
Some guidebooks still mention the museum bats that in
habited the rafters, unseen in the day but occasionally
spectacular as days left in drove and sunset. In March
2002 the bats left for good, moving on after renovations
to the ceiling. The museum borders street 178, aka
Artist's Street which in lined with several art
galleries and souvenir
shops.
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Wat Phnom |
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A small hill
crowned by an active wat (pagoda) marks the legendary
founding place of the Phnom Penh. The hill is the site
of constant activity, with a steady steam of the
faithful trekking to the vihear, shrines and fortune
tellers on top, and a constellation of vendors, visitors
and motodups at the bottom. Elephant rides available,
The legend of the founding of Wat Phnom is tied to the
beginning of Phnom Penh. Legend has it that in 1372 Lady
Penh (Yeay Penh) fished a floating Koki tree out of the
river. Inside the tree were four Buddha statues. She
built a hill (' Phnom' means 'hill') and a small temple
(wat) at what is now the side of what is now know as Wat
Phnom. Later, the surrounding area became know after the
hill (Phnom) and its creator (Penh), hence 'Phnom Penh'
The current temple was last rebuilt in 1926. The large
stupa contains the remains of King Ponhea Yat
(1405-1467) who moved the Khmer capital from Angkor to
Phnom Penh in 1422.Look for the altar of Lady Penh
between the large stupa and the vihear. She is said to
be of particular help to women. Wat Phnom is the busiest
pagoda in town the night of Chinese/ Vietnamese New
Year's Eve.
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Royal Palace And 'Silver Pagoda' |
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Open everyday 7:30 to
11:00/2:00 to 5:00 (Palace grounds closed during
official functions). The Palace buildings and Silver
Pagoda are located within the same walled grounds on
Sothearos just off the riverfront. Making the approach,
the high yellow wall and spired Chanchhaya Pavilion are
the most prominent features from the street. The Royal
Palace was built in 1866 under the French protectorate
and King Norodom, thought many of the buildings in the
complex were added overte following decades. The 'Silver
Pagoda'(so named for the silver tiled floor of the
vihear) was constructed at the end of the 19th century
and renovated in 1962. A collection of priceless
historical objects is on display in the vihear. Guide
pamphlets and tour guides are available near the
admission booth. Guided tour are
recommended.
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Toul Sleng and
Killing Field |
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When the Khmer Rouge came to power in 1975 they
converted a former high school in the suburbs of Phnom
Penh into a detention and torture center known as Toul
Sleng, S-21. A genocide museum was established at Toul
Sleng after 1979 and today it remains as it looked when
abandoned by the Khmer Rouge. Hundreds of faces of those
tortured line the walls inside the old school. Most
of the 17,000 people detained at Toul Sleng were
eventually transported to Choeung Ek, a mass gravesite
located 15 km outside Phnom Penh. Known to locals as the
Killing Field, Choeung Ek serves as a memorial to those
killed under the Khmer Rogue rule. These sites can be
extremely distressing, but are and essential part of
understanding Cambodia?s tragic past.
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Pagodas |
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In Phnom Penh,you are never out side walking distance of a Pagodas
Visitors are almost always welcome. Ray Zepp s A field
Guide to Cambodian Pagodas is an excellent introduction
to Phnom Penh Pagodas and Cambodian Buddhism. Wat Botum
significant because it is one of the city original Wats,
It was found in 1422 by king Ponhea Yat. It took its
current name in 1865 and its present structure in 1937.
Of photographic note: The Wat compound is crowded with
ornate stupas. Just northwest of the intersection of
southearos and Sihanouk. Wat Langka is one of Phnom Penh
five original Wats(1422). First established as a
sanctuary for the Holy Writing and a meeting place for
Cambodia and Sri Lankan monks, the Wats was named in
honor of this meetings. Just southwest of the
independent Monument. Wat Ounnalom is another of Phnom
Penh five original monasteries (1422). Until 1999, it
house the institute Bouddhique and library. On the
riverfront about 250 meters north of the National
Museum.
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Central Market(Phsar Thmei) |
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This unique,
art-decor building is a Phnom Penh landmark. Prior to
1935 the area was a swamp/lake that received the runoff
during the rainy season .The lake was drained and the
market constructed in 1935-37. Wet season flooding in
the area around the market is a vestige of the old lake.
The entrance to of market is lined with souvenir
merchants hawking everything from T-shirts and postcard
and photocopy book to silver curios and kramas and
eatable insects .Inside is a dazzling display of jewels
and gold. Electronic goods stationery, secondhand
clothes and flower are also in ample supply. (Phsar
Thmei means New Market , but Central Market has caught
on in English.)
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Russian Market (Phsar Toul Tom Poung) |
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This market is
of far less architectural interest than the Central
Market but has a larger and more varied selection of
souvenirs, curios and silks. Like the central Market, it
has a good selection of silver, gold and jewels, but
also carries huge selection of curios, silk, carvings,
etc. The Russian Market offers the largest selection of
boot legged VCDs, DVDs and CDs of all the traditional
markets. Most of the CD vendors are located on the south
side near the southeast corner of the market. It's also
a good place to buy fabric for business and casual
cloths to take to the tailor. Most of what the visitor
might want is in the same general area on the south side
but the rest of the market is well worth exploring. Food
and drink stands in the middle of the market for
hygienically adventurous
visitors. | |
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Old Market (Phsar Chas) |
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